With the forecast predicting warm but breezy, we headed up to Siuranella central today. They were right about the wind, but the sun never really came out properly until later this afternoon, so it stayed quite cool all the time we were up there. Good temps for climbing but a little chilly belaying. Tash onsighted a 6b+ as her warm up, then I put the draws in a 7a called 'Boca seca man', for her to try later. With my fingers warmed up, I had a go at an amazing 7c+ (Traficans de ferralla). The crux came quite low down, just above the 3rd bolt, and was fairly typical Siurana climbing with small sidepulls and poor feet. After this it eased off, with plenty of interesting technical climbing split by good rests and finished with a rockover onto a precarious slab. I came down, belayed Tash on the 7a, and then did it first redpoint - thankfully with no dramas (and a good job, as the holds at the crux were skin shredders!). Another fantastic route, as this photo hopefully shows:-
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| Some dude on the crux of 'Traficans de ferralla' (7c+) © Guillaume Oberli (pic stolen from 8a.nu) |
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