Monday, July 18, 2011

Naranjo de Bulnes

After a week of bad weather we finally we got our first view of the Naranjo de Bulnes - it does exist!



When we arrived at the base of the peak after a 4 hour slog we were fully emerged in thick cloud and couldn't see the face at all, despite it being about 100m behind me at this point! It was pretty cold and grim so we just cooked and went to bed about 6pm(!). Here I am cooking the cous cous and chorizo slop that was to later make me throw up all night and give me crippling stomach cramps - a bug (?) that wouldn't go away for the best part of two weeks.




But the next day was clear, with a perfect cloud inversion, so despite having no sleep or breakfast, and barely able to walk to the bottom of the route, we were up at 4am and set off on the Murciana route! Good preparation for the 550 metres and over 12hrs of climbing and descent that was to come.




Birds eye view of the refuge and our tent a long way below.




Still in the shade and still with over 300m of climbing to go.



The sun finally came on to the face about 3 or 4 pitches from the top. In spite of the agony I was in the whole way up, I couldn't help enjoying it. Here's an excerpt from my climbing log:

"Despite my stomach still cramping painfully, meaning every single movement was agonizing, the climbing was just so incredible I could still enjoy it. Bullet hard water-worn sheets of perfect steep limestone with pockets, crimps, jugs and not a sign of polish the whole way. There wasn't a bad pitch on the entire 17 pitch route (very rare for such a long mountain route) and many of them would have been 3 star classic single pitches! Certainly the best mountain limestone I've climbed on and possibly the best mountain rock period. Shows the Dolomites up to be the tottering choss heap that it is in comparison!"







Almost there...on the final ridge scramble to the top - Tash takes over the lead!




One very cold Tash and one very uncomfortable Ali - but both happy to be on top with spectacular views over the rest of the Picos and all the way out to sea!




Glad to be able to take my harness off for a while!




Walking back round the east face to our campsite.




The line of the Murciana route (ED1 or 7a/A2 - F7c+ totally free)



Next day the cloud was back to its usual place and obscuring the face again - SO glad we did the route the day before!

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